It's 9:00 on a sultry Saturday morning, and Fred’s Lounge in tiny Mamou, Louisiana, is as crowded and smoky as a big-city bar at midnight. You’d never know that outside this low-slung brick and cinder-block barroom things are all quiet and peaceful (after all, a fair amount of Mamou’s population of just four thousand are inside, and the rest of them are sleeping)...
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