Po-boy varieties are more or less limitless. The annual food vendor mischief at the Oak Street Po-Boy Festival last weekend alone is testament to that. At this year’s fifth annual festival, the hordes of po-boy lovers found, among other acts of bread bravery, a savory doughnut po-boy with pork and an ancestry in Thailand. And then there is roast beef, the odd duck among the standbys. Unlike the Big Three seafood po-boys, roast beef can’t claim strong local roots as an ingredient. And unlike its cold-cut cousins — which po-boy restaurants might serve but seldom create with house-made ingredients — roast beef requires house-cooked beef and gravy to stand a fighting chance of being really good...
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